Loan & finance calculators

Work out the repayment on an Australian home loan and see exactly how it splits between interest and principal, month by month. Add extra repayments to see how much time and interest they remove.

Estimate how much an Australian lender would lend you. Lenders assess your repayment capacity at your actual rate plus APRA's serviceability buffer, currently 3.0 percentage points, which is why your assessed capacity is lower than the rate you will actually pay suggests.

Estimate transfer duty on a residential property purchase in any Australian state or territory, plus the other upfront costs that sit on top of your deposit.

Work out your loan-to-value ratio and estimate the Lenders Mortgage Insurance premium payable above 80% LVR, including what it costs once capitalised onto the loan.

See what money in an offset account and extra repayments actually save you. Both reduce interest, but they work differently - an offset keeps the money accessible while extra repayments reduce the debt itself.

Work out whether refinancing pays once switching costs are counted, and how many months it takes to break even. Also shows what resetting to a fresh 30-year term really costs.

Compare fixing all, part or none of your loan. A split lets you lock in certainty on part of the debt while keeping offset and extra-repayment flexibility on the rest. Test what happens if rates rise or fall.

See what an interest-only period really costs, and how far repayments jump the day it ends. The trap is not the lower payment - it is that the loan still has to be repaid over a shorter remaining term, so the step up at expiry is much larger than most borrowers expect.

Test a mortgage against higher rates before a lender does. Australian lenders must assess you at your actual rate plus a serviceability buffer, so the repayment that decides your application is well above the one you would actually pay.

Work out how long it takes to save a deposit when the target is moving. Most deposit calculators assume prices stand still; this one grows the purchase price while you save, which is the difference between a plan that works and one that never quite gets there.

Compare up to three loans on total cost rather than headline rate. Upfront and annual fees routinely reverse the ranking over a realistic holding period, which is exactly what a rate-only comparison hides.

Work out what an investment property actually costs to hold each week after tax. It separates the cash position from the taxable position - depreciation is deductible without being a cash cost, which is why the two differ - and shows the capital growth needed just to break even.

Should spare cash go into the mortgage or the market? Paying down a loan is a guaranteed, tax-free return equal to your interest rate, which is a higher bar than it first appears - an investment has to beat it after tax and after risk.

Compare buying against renting and investing the difference, measured on net wealth at the end of the period rather than monthly cost. Buying almost always costs more month to month early on - the real question is whether equity and capital growth more than make that back over your actual holding period.

Work out what actually lands in your account. This applies the current ATO tax scale, Medicare levy and surcharge, HELP repayments, tax offsets and the super guarantee, then shows the result across every pay cycle. Change the financial year to see how the tax cuts affect you.

Estimate your income tax, Medicare levy and refund position for the year, and see exactly which bracket each dollar falls into. Australia taxes income in slices - moving into a higher bracket only ever taxes the dollars above that threshold, never your whole income.

Work out your compulsory HELP repayment and how long the debt takes to clear. Since 2025-26 repayments are marginal - calculated only on income above the threshold - which is far gentler than the old system where crossing a threshold applied a rate to your whole income.

See your total concessional contributions against the cap, what contributions tax and Division 293 take out, and where the balance lands over time. The cap counts employer super, salary sacrifice and personal deductible contributions together - it is easy to breach it without noticing.

Compare what salary sacrificing costs your take-home pay against what actually lands in super. The gap is your marginal rate less the 15% contributions tax - but HELP repayments and Division 293 can close it, so it is worth checking rather than assuming.

Convert an hourly rate into an annual salary and take-home pay, including overtime. Worth knowing before you compare an hourly role with a salaried one: super is compulsory on ordinary hours only, so overtime lifts your pay but not your super.

Work out what a bonus is really worth after tax, and whether sacrificing it into super leaves you better off. The tax withheld from a bonus payslip is usually more than the true cost, because withholding annualises the pay period - the difference comes back at tax time.

Compare an ABN contract rate against a permanent salary on equal terms. A day rate has to cover the super, annual leave, sick leave and downtime an employer would otherwise fund, so the headline number needs to be well above the salaried equivalent before you are actually ahead.